grooming
brushing, barbering and bathing
toenails: piggy pedicures
ears

grooming

Guinea pigs will generally clean themselves, but long-haired breeds such as the Peruvian, Texel and Silkie need a little extra attention to the coat. The Baldwin, relatively new to guinea pig enthusiasts, is hairless and needs extra attention to its skin. Abyssinian guinea pigs have “bedhead” rosettes in their coat, and need brushing, though not as much as longhaired breeds.

Grooming piggies takes some patience; most guinea pigs won’t like their hair being pulled this way and that. But with some gentle words and lots of parsley bribes, guinea pigs will eventually take well to brushing, bathing and general inspection.

brushing, “barbering” and bathing

For the beginner, short-haired breeds may be a better choice, since they require less maintenance than the long-haired breeds, which need almost daily brushing to prevent matting. With a short-haired guinea pig, a periodic gentle brushing is all that’s needed to get rid of dirt or debris in the coat. Teddies, or Rex cavies have wiry hair that can be very curly or wavy. They can be “fluffed” by brushing from back to front (although they may not like this treatment…it’s like petting a cat the wrong way).

If you have a long-haired guinea pig, brushing is essential to keep the coat untangled and free of debris. You may want to keep their hair trimmed, mainly at the back, where urine leaves hair matted and smelly.

If you have a male long-haired guinea pig, check to make sure the long hairs around his genital area are not getting stuck in his perianal sac (it looks a bit like a doughnut) or his penis, which can lead to infection or injury! Although a Peruvian guinea pig with hair flowing on the ground is a beautiful sight, trimming their hair — especially around their back end often results in less matting and more comfort for them.

During brushing and/or trimming, the trick is to keep your guinea pig calm. I generally trim my long-haired girls on a flat surface, so they don’t thrash about. Only rarely will a long-haired piggy submit to being brushed without wheeking loudly in protest!

Some guinea pigs will actually practice barbering, where they eat the hair from their long-haired cagemates, but there’s really no explanation for that habit. It appears to be a personality quirk.

I often get an email from a concerned person whose guinea pig has a white fluid in the eye. While grooming, the guinea pig may produce a white liquid in the eye, which is quite normal. Our tear ducts constantly wash away particles that lodge in our eyes; for guinea pigs, they have their own special eye cleaning solution.

Bathe your guinea pig only on an “as needed” basis. Don’t bathe a guinea pig unless its coat is dirty or oily. Bathing removes natural oils in the skin and will dry out the coat.

That said, if you must bathe your guinea pig, it’s best to use a small dishpan or bathroom sink with a washcloth in the bottom and warm, shallow water. Use a very mild shampoo such as baby or kitten shampoo, and work a small amount into the coat. If your guinea pig struggles, hold it gently. Keep your guinea pig’s head out of the water, especially the ears and nose. Rinse well, and dry thoroughly.

Use a hair dryer on a warm, not hot, setting, to help dry the pig. Wet guinea pigs are very susceptible to colds, so keep them warm until they are completely dry. A vegetable treat is always good after a bath. I never bathe my girls during the winter, as my house is very old and can be a bit drafty. I must reiterate that guinea pigs, especially wet or damp ones, can become very ill if they get chills.

You can touch-up your guinea pig’s beard and rear end, since those areas get dirty the quickest. You’ll quickly become familiar with the orange post-carrot lips or sticky hair from melon dripping down the front of your piggy. This is easily cleaned off with a damp washcloth.

As for the rear end, occasional trimming is important to prevent matting in long-haired breeds. Sometimes I will dip just the bottom in some soapy water to get the matted hair soft before I do a trimming.

toenails: piggy pedicures

Clipping toenails can be hazardous, since it’s mainly you holding a sharp instrument while trying to wrestle with a nervous guinea pig! It is best to be taught by an experienced piggy person or veterinarian first.

Basically, clipping a guinea pig’s toenails is much like clipping a cat’s: you get a gentle but firm grip on the foot, and trim, avoiding the nail quick (the blood vessel, which is that dark thing that you can see through the nail). Many guinea pigs can be held without a struggle to be clipped; some guinea pigs need to be wrapped tightly in a towel. Another method — possibly the best method, in my opinion — is simply holding the guinea pig against your chest or in your lap. Hold the piggy in one hand, and place his or her back against you. Use the fingers of that hand to hold the paw firmly, while you trim with the other hand. An even better idea is to hold the guinea pig while another person does the clipping.

Get a good grip on the paw, and try to prevent your guinea pig from squirming. Make sure you have a styptic pencil or powder (flour, cornstarch) on hand, to stop the bleeding in case you cut the quick. It is wise to invest in a good pair of toenail clippers for animals, as human nail clippers and even (gasp!) scissors can crush a piggy’s toenail. I suggest trimming along the flat side of the nail, as this will mean less smooshing as you clip the nail.

While you’re clipping away, you may notice what appears to be a soft “extra” toe. Leave it alone, or immerse in warm water to remove some of the dirt/poop. I learned the hard way: don’t pull at this callous. You’ll pull the toe pad skin right off, and your piggy will be very cross with you!

ears

Periodically check your guinea pig’s ears for waxy material. Moisten a cotton swab with a very small amount of mineral oil and lightly clean the outer ear area. Use a clean swab each time you wipe the ear. DO NOT go deep into the ear! You can cause serious damage. If there is a large buildup of waxy material, you may want to take your guinea pig to a vet to check for mites. A funky smell can also indicate mites.